Sunday, December 13, 2009

Trent's Stu Kenson 9' Bonzer Bottom Speedster...

I got a chance to paddle with Trent and Stu Kenson last week. The surf was small that day but super clean and perfect for a stand up board. Trent picked up this one about four months ago and has been pulling it out when the beach gets small and peaky. Check it out:



If I had to guess, I'd put Trent at about 190lbs- this board fits him well. He's able to get around on it and it seems to go really well.



Photo: It was just a super clean, little day down there. Lot's of laughing and board swapping- a good time had by all.



Photo: Check the fin set up on Trent's board- super cool.

I've got to thank Jeff Wallis for the photos- guy always seems to turn up at the right time. Be sure to check out BeachSurf, Jeff's been putting up some really killer shots lately.

Friday, December 11, 2009

More Photos from the Feeding Frenzy.

In all the excitement, I forgot to tell you my reasons for calling this day the "feeding frenzy". There are basically two things that brought about the title. The first one is obvious, the second one is.... sinister!



Like I said before, the spot is far enough outside that not too many prone guys like to paddle out to it, especially if you have to chase the peak around. The result is that if you're the only stand up guy out there it's all yours- go ahead, stuff yourself, have a feeding frenzy.

Second
, I'd been told that it gets "weird" way out there sometimes. And I've felt it too. You're all by yourself way out there and it just gets really still and you feel like you might see something.



My friend Stu once told me that Kelly and I were crazy for surfing at sunset way out side at a peak that both sizeable and lonely. Stu's a bass fisherman so he knows all about the habits of predatory fish. I guess when Stu saw us sitting around, off of a reef that drops to deep water, at sunset, he got the idea that we probably looked like a couple of nice shiny lures. But there's no giant largemouths here, I'm thinking of something a little bit more toothy, a whole lot larger and, in general, hungry.



You'll say, "There's no sharks out there, that's Nor-Cal stuff". That's what I always thought too. Until my friend Stukey pointed out the dead seal on the beach, with the giant hunk bitten out of it. It was like somebody took a razor sharp ice cream scoop and scalloped out a 30lb chunk of prime pinniped loin. Worst part? It was laying there dead and filleted right in front of the reef I'd just been surfing. It just gets you thinking.



And even though there's a bunch of these rolling through, you start to get the eebie/jeebies... and you begin to think it might be time to head in. Stuff like that just get's in your head.



So I did. Until I surf it again tomorrow.

Thursday, December 10, 2009

What a day... wide open feeding frenzy way out the back!

I'm so tired right now it's hard to write all that I'd like to. A few well placed words and a couple of cobbled together sentences will have to do. Check out these photos of my surf session today (all photos courtesy of Jeff Wallis):



Jammed down to the pier and peeked through to the south side. Way out the back... going off; knew I was at the wrong spot so I whipped a U-turn and headed to "the spot".




It was going off...



So I suited up as fast as I could
and paddled out through the super hairy, ultra-gnarly beachbreak, heart pounding, hoping I wouldn't get caught by one of the death-sets that were rolling through. Had good karma- squeeked out.



Paddled way out until I was right on the thick section of a big, lined up left-hander that was coming through every now and again.



Snagged one! Fade to the right...



...swing to the left!



And then start pumping for all that you've got. The waves looked pretty manageable but once you got out there you realized that there was a lot of wall to deal with. In addition the wave was fairly full down at the base- if you dropped too low at the wrong time you'd slow way down and get left behind. The key was to keep a high line, right in the hook and haul ASS.



Of course, once you start getting comfortable, you start taking chances... like dropping way low and trying to pull up into the hook of the wave. Most of the waves I surfed today ran fifty to eighty or so yards up the beach. All lefts.



I was getting tired and my free time was running out, so I rode this one all the way to the beach and called it a day. We've got rain coming now and I'm sure I won't be able to surf for the next four or five days so I'd call this session a huge score. Stoked- hope you got some too!

Monster Paint in the house and on the deck!

Tom English and crew got this one right. Monster Paint is rad- no more wax (which means no more messed up seats in the truck or molten wax disasters in the back of the truck), never slip- what more do you want? Check it out:



Tom handed me a can of this stuff one day up at the DogPatch- I've been stoked on the stuff ever since. The stuff is so easy to use and it's really grippy. Stamps is using it in his shop and offers it as an option on his boards.



Here's the 9'6" Ninja Bump I've been riding lately- the Monster Paint goes on perfectly clear- you'll see just a bit of a matte finish once it's been done. The stuff feels really good underfoot, I'm never going back to wax.



Photo: Super easy to use- just make sure to mask off any part of the board that your bare skin might rub on- the stuff can chafe you if oversprayed onto the rails.



Photo: Peel off tape and paper and you're ready to go.



Photo: Post up with confidence- you're not slipping off with Monster Paint!

Monday, December 7, 2009

8'0 x 29.75" x 4.25" Grim Ripper

Got a couple of notes from folks interested in seeing a few more photos of the 8'0 G.R. that I posted up yesterday. Here's a couple more photos of the board- this one's going for $1000 with pad installed... never been ridden or paddled... what are you waiting for? Contact Tim at: stampssurf@charter.net



I saw this board before it had been sanded out- it's got a really surfy look to it with a super clean rail profile... a ripper for sure! It's also really light, made of eps and epoxy.



This is a steal... grab it.

Sunday, December 6, 2009

Shop Pics: From the Board Factory...

A couple more shop pics from trip up to the board factory:



Photo: There's three brand new Christmas gifts right there! In order: 7'10" Grim Ripper (yellow), 8'0 Grim Rip. and a 10' Viking waiting to get sanded and sent way up north.



Photo: Are you paying attention? Are you in southern California? Here's an opportunity to steal a board- this one's an 8'6 x 29.5 x 4.25" Grim Ripper- brand new, never been ridden... FOR SALE $1000. I'm guessing this would be a workable board for somebody in the 180 - 220lb range... possibly more. Contact Tim at www.surfboardsbystamps.com



Photo: Another shot of a sweet board- go grab it!



Photo: Check out this sweet 9'0 Ninja-bump, Tim's making this one for Sal Masekela (seen the X-Games? Then you've seen Sal M.)... I'm digging the outline on those Nbumps- the little winged round tail really works.



Photo: Here's something cool, Tim's working with Future Fins to put together a quad fin set... I've got a fin sickness so I thought I'd snap some shots... I love fiberglass fins- fast and flexy... sweet foils. Stay tuned for some feedback on these ones.

Friday, December 4, 2009

Season of the Ripper... The Grim Ripper!

You'd think that with the days getting shorter and the water getting colder, the demand for stand up boards would be slowing down, right? Wrong. At least not according to Tim Stamps out in Seal Beach. "I've got more boards going through the shop right now than I did in July- bunches of custom Ninja-bumps and even more Grim Rippers- it's been really surprising."

Here's two of the latest to run through his doors:



This one comes in at 7'10" shaped for ripper Ted Robinson. Tim tells me that they've been refining the shape, pushing it hard in the thumpy beach breaks of Huntington and L.A.'s South Bay. Rumor has it there are some HOT photos floating around of big Ted torquing on a couple of Stamps shapes, blowing tail and legitimately SCHWACKING it off the lip... just got one thing to say to that... send 'em to me!



Photo: Top view of the 7'10" Grim Ripper shred-sled



Photo: Here's another Grim Ripper, this one's 8'6"- funny, but when I look at new boards I automatically think about surfing them myself... I think this one's more around my dimensions. I'm thinking I'd go with a bit of a wider board then the 29.5" I'm used to and probably get it somewhere in the 8'6" to 8"10" range- call me a dinosaur but I just don't see myself dropping all the way down into the land of the sub-8' stand up.



Photo: Bottom view- five boxes... sounds like fun!

Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Another SUP Airbrush

Here is spray #2.
10'0 All arounder
21"-29.5"-16.5"x 4.75" foiled and the railline pulled down a hairgoing to be a muli fin system (quad with a box). Stock board for the shop.
Pulling the papaer is like opening a christmas present.
Photo: still in the paper.

Photo: tail detail

Photo: Whole board

Peace and Good waves to all,
Capt Ron

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Some Airbrush

My wife wanted some pink flowers on her new board and a bit of color. So after setting down the airbrush 10 or so years ago this is the first spray I have done since then. I decided after shaping her this sweet 9'6" round nose, round tail and looking at the shape for a while I decided that simple pink flowers would not do. I may just sneak a few waves on this thing- how funny would it be to see a gruff old man riding a board with pink flowers on it. I'll probably get laughed out of the lineup.

Here it is: 9'6"x 21.25"-29.75"-16.5"x4.375" with pink abstract flowers on the bottom.







John, you guys are scoring out there. We had a absolutely unreal month of waves in November. I surfed overhead glassy waves for 10 days straight it was like being on a surf trip. I hope my friends hit me up with some pics for a report. It got really good here a few days. Like as world class as Florida can get. Shaping up to be a good winter.
Peace and good waves to all,
Capt Ron

Still some fun ones out there

Alright, I'll say it: This has been a good winter and fall for surf! And there's still some out there- go get 'em:



Fire up that flatwater rocket and go log some miles...



Or paddle out the back for a couple of thickies...



Even the beachbreaks were fun!

Monday, November 30, 2009

Tube Sequence: Mind surf it...

Turned around and saw this one reeling off. Squeezed the button, my camera's not too fast 1.5 frames per second. There's six frames, according to my calculations, you've got four seconds of tube time.



Photo: But ask anybody who's been there, the barrel bends time...



Photo:
Four seconds in the green room can feel like five minutes.



Photo: This one looks so do-able... but what you don't see are the double overhead bombs that sweep through every now and then. These clean up sets would detonate in knee deep water and scour the lineup of anybody stupid enough to give it a shot.



Photo: That's why it's empty.



Photo: But still tempting.



Photo: Any takers?

Friday, November 27, 2009

Kelly's Custom C4 Bombora Chaser: "Now you have no excuses..."

That's a heavy statement. The point being, if you order one of these, you're basically threading up some meaty zapatos; better be ready to fill 'em. No excuses. I'll probably pass.



Photo: Looking north.



Photo: Looking south. See that little contrail lining the face of the wave way out the back? That's a guy redlining it on the left hander.



Photo: The right looked a bit more manageable, at least there was a semi-channel.



Photo: Before the fog blanket swamped the place, I got a couple of shots of Kelly riding the Bombie chaser through to the inside.



Photo: For a 10'10" it turns pretty good.



Photo: Swoopin' and carvin', a great way to work off a couple of pounds of turkey and pie.



Photo: Even the meanest gun starts off as a humble piece of foam, basically a sculpted styro coffee cup.



Photo: There's only one reason you need two leash plugs.



Photo: Paddle fast, get in early, make sections and pull out. Live to surf another day. Sounds pretty straightforward to me.