Spam Fried Rice: Check back for this month's "Paddle Fuel"!

I might just beat this thing before Saturday morning! Be sure to check back this weekend for the next installment of everybody's favorite: Paddle Fuel! This month we're featuring the one thing that can turn any vegetarian. We're going to unveil the secrets of Spam Fried Rice.... yum!

Zapped: Where did this little cold come from?

Oh man, just got a reminder of how much it sucks to be sick. Here's a couple shots from the weekend to keep the dream alive... Nyquil here I come:

Photo: Javi on his Surftech Gerry Lopez... some fun ones out there if you were patient.

Photo: Pinky, cruising.

Photo: Me, lights out- welcome to the land of Nyquil.

Buzzy Kerbox Gliding a Stock 12": Bill Boyum Maliko Clip

Got this in my mail today: "Here's a clip of Buzzy Kerbox on a stock 12 footer in case anyone thinks it's all just unlimited boards out there. When it cranks anything work."

Photo: Here's the guy you want to contact to get filmed out there.

This is insane! Who else wants to do a downwinder now?

Okay- now I'm really blown away! Last night's video was cool, don't get me wrong but this one is just nuts. How killer is this perspective on the glides these guys are getting. Bill Boyum on Maui shot this with is his custom downwinder filming rig- I have to say he's got this filming thing wired for the Maliko Run. Definitely contact him if you're interested in getting filmed. Check it out:



Local San Diego Surf News: Stoked to go to Manny Vargas' showing of his photography this Saturday, May 15th... if you'd like to check it out contact Manny at his website: www.mannyvphoto.com and send him a note for an invitation... should be some unreal stuff to be seen. I'm excited about it- come on by and say hello.

Connor Baxter snags a Runner: Maliko water footage by Bill Boyum

Just received this footage from Bill Boyum in Maui- killer little clip of Connor Baxter jamming by on a runner offshore Maui. Bill's been perfecting his video rig for recording folks on the Maliko downwinder- contact him if you'd like to be filmed: billboyum@gmail.com

Video Clip: May Morning Stand Up Paddle Surf

Video is here too.

The two shot perspective: Simultaneous water and land shots...

Hey, swing on by Manny Vargas's blog and check out the cool little piece he did called "Perspective". It's a collection of shots taken simultaneously from land (actually, on the pier... by me) and in water. Manny makes the point for getting close when the water photog. is shooting with a fisheye lens. It's cool because you can see what he's shooting from my point of view and then see what he shot from his point of view. Perspectives, get it?

Photo: Here's what I shot, click on Manny's blog to see what he grabbed...

Summer... time for some new boards!

Days are getting longer... how about a new board for summer? Here's a couple straight out of the Stamps board factory. Two brand new Ninja-Bump models:

Couple of thoughts here:

1. I'm getting the urge to ride a bigger board this summer- something to suck up the smallest surf out there and let me do more with less. Something in the mid 9' to 10' range, a nose rider outline.

2. Ever notice that you don't get your foot all way to the tail of the board most of the time? That's the advantage of having a break in the outline, right where your foot falls there's a pivot point. The bump give the water a place to release from the rail. What do you notice? A little more looseness, a little more release out of turns. Give the bump a try, you'll like it.

More Gerry Lopez Stand Up Paddle Surf Photos

Here's a couple more from LJS's roll of spy film. Check 'em:

Photo: Stuck to the face like a fly on tar paper. Nice and glassy... and mean (or as Sheldon would say: meeaaannn!).

Photo: Is it me or is that thing forming a little ledgey-Shipsterny double up right below GL's board? It may look serenely hypnotic but the truth is probably something a little less pastoral.

Photo: Another example of the gnarl-factor: check out how much of his board is out of the water as he comes over this little ledge. What are you thinking on that board? 8'6, 8'10? I'm making the call that it's under 9'0... anybody out there with some data?

Photo: Cakewalk... nuff said.

Crypto-source: Gerry Lopez Stand Up Paddle Surfing Indonesia...

"This is some underground shit, man" Classic, couldn't have said it better- LJS, somewhere in the islands strikes again. This guy is my black-ops, deep cover, crypto-source... how does he get this stuff? I have no idea, but the guy is hooked into the mainline over there and I'm stoked for it. And, yes- beers and my famous coconut chicken at P.net World headquarters when you get over here to SD- the least I could do. Enjoy:

Photo: Definitely not hiding out on the shoulder- and not too worried about just how meaty that thing's going to get. Or that he's going to probably be pulling in on his back hand.

Photo: Somebody please send me to Indo.

Check back for more Gerry Lopez stand up paddle photos... 

Best Surf Video Ever: New Copy of Beyond Blazing Boards

If you're in your mid-30s to mid-40s and you surfed through the 80s and 90s then chances are you know about the surf film Beyond Blazing Boards by the late Chris Bystrom. For us "Bubble Boomers" (my term for those of us on the trailing edge of the tidal wave of humanity that gave us things like polyester leisure suits, Chia-pets and gold veined, mirror wall tiles), this one is the pick for the discriminating surf-voyeur (dude, did I just write that?).

I personally, wiled away many hours, can of Naty Light in hand, reclined on a nasty sofa watching our bootlegged (somebody came back from Bali with a copy) tape of this classic. I should have been studying O.Chem but instead I studied Padang Padang, Uluwatu and Isla Natividad. By the way, Chuy Reyna was ripping in that vid.

If you wanted a copy, that video was tough to get. It never was widely distributed. Then came Amazon- check out the little box to the upper right and you'll see that I've created a "John's Picks" tile. The idea came to me after I was wasting time on Amazon looking up obscure things that I'm into (crank handle pepper grinders- a personal favorite). On a whim, I typed in Beyond Blazing Boards and wham! There it was! Amazing. Even better, three days later it was in my hands, a fresh copy of the most influential surf video of all time (well, I liked it).  Internet, Amazon, search engine, obscure surf video in my hands... now that's progress!

I will be updating that little "John's picks" tile frequently- check it out, I've only added things that I can really vouch for as "bad ass". There's music, surf gear, travel gear and books on there now... I'll be adding additional items as they come to my attention. Each item has a one or two sentence description that I penned myself- so you can find a little more content in there. Let me know what you think about my picks... and if you get a chance, give Beyond Blazing Boards a look, that one will stoke you out.

Check Back for my critical review of this surf classic.

Big Al's 9'8" Dave Craig Custom Made Stand Up Paddle board.

I always love looking into my email and finding reader submissions... especially if the mail I'm picking up has photos of new custom boards in it. Big Al sent me these shots of his new Dave Craig stand up board. I asked him about the channel that Dave's got running through the bottom and this is what I got:

"This is a new thing he and Mitch have been working on...The channel gives it more lift for initial acceleration. It also makes it more stable in choppy conditions. I'm not sure of the board's weight but we used the lightest blank and it makes a huge difference. I surf lots of different waves on my boards: Cliffs, P.B., the Shores, Torrey Pines, Cardiff. I like to move around with the different conditions."

"It's fast and likes the pocket... the board is 9'8" x 29 1/2 x 4 3/8. I've been riding Dave's boards for the last two years. The quad set up works good for my style. This new one has a lot of drive. We went with the lighter blank. I'm trying out the Lopez quad fins but I'm also trying out some different Futures rear fins as well."

Of course, I'm a little hung up on stand up paddle fins, so I asked Big Al for a little more information about what his other set ups were for his rear fins. Here's what he had to say:

"More info. I like the rear 375s(top right) the best- especially on hollower waves. Gonna try the 413s(bottom right) and see how they work on this board. The black 426s are a nice all around fin. I usually run the big twins in the front because of my size 6'3" 235lbs. But I decided to give the Lopez fins a try."

Super cool hearing Al's thoughts about the board. I'm constantly learning and I can say that a few of the things that Al likes about his board are similar to what I'm finding that I am liking. A list of my observations: 

1. I also like my "everyday" board (used mostly here in snappy beach breaks) to be light. I find that lighter boards are easier to whip around and transition from rail to rail. Al said that they used the lightest possible blank... I wonder if he's on a 1lb blank? All of my boards are made with 1.5 lb blanks. I know that Stamps is making his own board with 1lb foam. We'll have to get a report on how it holds up. But, yeah, for me- light is definitely right.

2. Both Al and I are the same weight, 235lbs and it seems like we're both on boards about the same width. My newest one is 30" wide but the version before it was 29.5". I have paddled boards as narrow as 28" and can honestly say that they are do-able but if I want to keep my length around 9'0 and the thickness to a very minimum, that 29 - 30" range is about right. 

3. I'm a big fan of the Futures Gerry Lopez SUP fins... My opinion?  Those fins do it all (you're going to hear this again and again from me... I like them that much). But- the four fin thing hasn't clicked for me- I do have a nice set of the GL quads and I will give them another shot but Big Al and I differ on the quad thing. I do think Al will like those quads. For me, it's the nice flex that those fins have in 'em... I get a bit of snap off the bottom but it's not a "big 'ol waggin' fin" hangin' down there. Al's going to have to give us his impressions once he's had them out for a ride.

4. And finally, I see you're going with a single bump over a round tail. I am hooked on that single bump... talk about release off the top! I've had nice chats with Dave Craig about the benefit and theory of the breaking the outline with a bump like that and I think that for the surf we're riding here in SD, that little pivot point is super helpful. 

Congratulations on your new board, Al. Definitely fill us in on its performance- it looks great!

Manny Vargas Water Photography: Part III

Editors Note: I just wanted to thank Manny Vargas for taking the time to sit down and knock this out with me. Manny's a modest guy, but the reality is that this is a bodyboarder who is known worldwide. Manny is hugely respected for his surfing and his humble demeanor. Don't get me wrong, the court jester is hiding just below the surface but most of the time this is a soft spoken guy who takes his photography seriously. Bodyboarders seem to be the shoe-ins for difficult water shot assignments- just check out the work of Mike Stewart and Todd Glaser (guy nailed a couple of Surfer Mag cover shots)... the spongers know how to get in the pit and get it done.

P.net: Speaking of gear, what are shooting with these days?

Manny: I've upgraded to the Canon 7D and a Tokina 10 - 17mm fisheye lens. Going from the 20D to the 7D is like going from a standard hot dog at a little league game to a Tijuana Danger Dog with all the fixings! If you’ve had a TJ Danger Dog, you know what I’m talking about. I also have a 100-400mm lens for land shots and the 28 - 105mm kit lens that came with the 7D.

P.net: What's on the wish list?

Manny: Well, it's just wishing right now.... But sooner than later I’d like to get a hold of a Canon EOS-1Ds Mark III, Canon 5D Mark II, 14mm 2.8, 24-105mm f4L, EF 70-200mm f2.8 IS, EF 50mm f1.2L, EF 600mm f4L IS, 100mm Macro. Pulling that together is a goal. It’s possible, right?

P.net: Absolutely!

P.net: While we're on the topic of dreams... if you could pull together a dream trip where would you go and who'd be there with you?

Manny: Oh man… never really thought of that question. Let’s see. For sure, my wife would be there for support. I would love to explore more of the South Pacific. From what I've seen, the water color is amazing. And I love the island style of living. Onboard? Shoot, Roach, Sean Fowler and a couple other people who understand the difference between respect and having fun.

 P.net: Anything we should know about working with a water photographer?

Manny: Talk to the photographer. And when the photographer speaks don’t just "hear" him or her... really listen. Just like an experienced wedding photographer choreographs his portraits in response to the environment around him, the same goes for water photography. The water photographer is looking at the same wave as you but from a different angle. Oh man, I could go on with little tips and tricks but you’re going to have to book a session with me! Hit me up and I’ll make you a better photographed wave rider.

P.net: Definitely... let's get your contact information out there. Where can we reach you?

Manny: I'm easy to find. On the web, I'm at www.mannyvphoto.com. If you're fired up, just call me at 619-788-2456 and you can book a session. Other than that I'm shooting practically everyday. You can also check out what I've got going on more or less daily at www.mannyvinthewater.blogspot.com- I'm having a lot of fun with that site so check it out. 

P.net: Killer- thanks a lot for sitting down and busting this thing out... any last thoughts?

Manny: I love taking water photos. That’s number one. But when the waves are perfect… I’ll shoot, but sometimes I need to get on my sponge and get slotted too. Can't really blame me, can you? 

P.net: Nope! Thanks Manny- see you in the water.

Manny: Right on- thanks a lot. 

Be sure to check Manny's work out at his site: www.mannyvphoto.com, Manny's fired up to put his life in danger shooting hard charging stand up paddle rippers... if you're looking for the shot, call Manny!  

Manny Vargas Water Photograpy Part II

P.net: I'm sure you've got some favorite shots... how and where did those come about?

Manny: Since '03 I've been putting together tours of some of my favorite bodyboarding spots. My tour company packages them all up and we uncork them onto the public. Costa Rica, Indonesia and Cabo are on the yearly list. Part of the package includes water shots so I get out quite a bit in some unreal conditions. But it was during the recent '09 trip to Cabo trip that I got one of my favorite photos.

Basically, it was the day I’d been waiting for- great light, surf and one of the best, arguably the best, bodyboarders in the world in the water. The wave was macking 5 foot shorebreak and Paul Roach was the only one making the drops perfectly. We lined up a few shots that day but one particular shot was unreal- that photo is going up on my wall for sure (ed. note, check Part I for a sweet shot of Paul Roach getting shacked drop knee).

As for surfing… a Russian surfer living in Bali gets that vote. I was shooting Padang Padang and it was on fire! As I'm shooting, he goes by me getting barreled. After that wave he paddles over and says I should move over a little. So I did. He had this “I’ve surfed this place many times” look about him. So I listened. The very next wave we hooked up! It was awesome. I still see Gene Kreyd when I get back to Bali every year. He’s a cool dude.

P.net: Any super sketchy sessions?

Manny: Every session is different. My most difficult one was shooting a group of bodyboarders over this reef on Maui. It was about three feet deep and about 4 foot Hawaiian. When the sets came in, the water would drain and I was floating about 1 foot above the reef with all limbs extended and the camera out of the water. I did this for about a couple hours and it just got too dry. Yes, I got a scrape on my knee- but the housing was untouched! Ha!

P.net: Anything funny ever happen out on the road?

Manny: I get funny about my gear. A couple of years ago, I was driving a crew around in Costa Rica in a 15 passenger van. Along the way, we picked up a few other people. So I had to pass my camera bag back to the rear. I'm keeping my eyes peeled on my bag through the rear view mirror as it's getting passed back. I keep looking back checking it out. Finally, I can't stand it any more and I pull over, throw it in park and grab my bag. I ended up driving with it on my lap the rest of the day. Yeah, that wasn’t really funny, huh? Shit. I’m anal about my camera gear!

Here's a little sketch story: I was in Cabo San Lucas after my group had gone home. My wife and I stayed a few extra days to wind down. We went out to Lovers Beach and it was cracking. Glassy and heavy. I had my camera and headed out. I grabbed a bunch of empty wave photos- cool stuff, great light, no problem. Just then, a set rolled in and I turned to take a shot of the first wave. That was almost a disaster, it was the worst thing I could’ve done. I came up after that wave, paddled hard and fast to get the next photo and was caught. The last wave of the set was coming and I didn’t think I wasn’t going to make it. Luckily, the waves were throwing out about as wide as they were tall or I would’ve been gonzo. I came in after that- straight to the beach.

Photo: Manny and his wife Mailei

P.net: Have you had any of your shots published?

Manny: I’ve had photos published overseas and nationally. All in the bodyboarding scene. But it’s just a matter time before I get some surfing photos published. I’m working with a few great surfers and we’ve been connecting... but I'm still shooting for that one magic photo.

P.net: Where do you like shooting, land or water?

Manny: I love the ocean. I want to be in the water and with the lens I use, I have to be in your face. I love getting as close as possible without getting a fin to the head. I’ll eventually get a longer lens for shots from the channel but I prefer getting in the barrel.

Check back for Part III

Waterphotography with Manny Vargas: Part I

I'm always stoked to run into Manny Vargas- the guy is hilarious (ask him about surfing in South Africa) and is super talented at stuffing himself into the barrel on a bodyboard and at being in the right place at the right time to score killer water shots. Here's the transcript of our little beach side chat (all photos courtesy of Mannyvphoto.com):

Paddlesurf.net: Hey Manny- thanks for the water shots. Why don't you give us a "for-the-record bio of yourself?

Manny Vargas: Sounds good: Born in National City, raised in Imperial Beach from the tender age of fourteen hours. I've been bodyboarding professionally since 1985, surfing now and again during those years. I was a lifeguard at Silver Strand State Beach from '93 - '96. Lately, I've been shooting water photography basically since '05.

P.net: How did you get started doing water photography?

Manny: I was fortunate to start my professional bodyboarding career with one of the best surfing photographers out there, Jeff Flindt. Jeff and I were both perfecting our trades as we went on world adventures, he was snapping photos and I was surfing perfect waves. When we hooked up on an awesome photo we'd both be stoked on it- that's the part that I really enjoyed.

I learned so much from watching Flindt, he had a killer work ethic and his camera care regimen left a mark on me. It was cool to watch. When I got my first water setup (Canon 20D and SLP Waterhousing) back in 2005, I was hooked! I was now on the other side of the lens seeing the stoke of riders when we nailed a shot. It’s an awesome feeling.

P.net: Who were the water shot guys that really stand out in your mind?

Manny: I grew up and bodyboarded in the old-school age of film… when photographers would have to paddle in from heavy surf after taking the 36 photos per roll that they were limited to, load up a new roll and then head back out. Again, Jeff Flindt was cool to travel the world with and learn from. But then there was Aaron Lloyd.

Aaron Lloyd was the boot camp photographer. He's a cool cat to hang with and talk story. But if the surf was on and the lighting was crisp, you better perform. There's a trip I remember vividly… it was in '89, I was part of a crew of five bodyboarders sent to Puerto Escondido for a photoshoot. One day it got good, 5 - 7 foot Hawaiian and it was heavy. Aaron paddled out with us right into it.

I was lucky enough to go big and not each shit right in front of the camera. But the other guys were blowing opportunities. I remember seeing Aaron come in from the beach with his pole cam in hand and his legs scraped and bleeding. And he was pissed off. He put himself in positions to get the shot but the rider(s) kept blowing it and he’d go over the falls. That’s when I realized that the photographer can’t make something out of nothing. When it comes to shooting wave riders, it's a two way road. If both perform, magic happens.

Check Back for Part II

In the water: Manny Vargas Stand Up Paddle Water Photography

Here's a couple of killer water photography shots sent to me by pro-snapper Manny Vargas. Kiwi and I were stoked to run into Manny and local ripper Sean Fowler down the beach last Friday. Kiwi ended up scoring this killer right hander and I nailed a cool little beach-side interview with Manny. Check out shots and check back for my interview:



Photo: Kiwi happened to walk right into this nice right runner. All photos courtesy of MannyVphoto.com



Photo: He told me that there was nothing to do but stand there and watch the lip fly past his ear...



Photo: And at the end of the wave, there was Manny- SPL housing and fisheye just waiting and shooting.



Photo: I even snagged one- but the whole deal with water photogs is that you're supposed to aim right for their head... that lens is an in-your-face type of situation... and I have to admit, getting that close with 9' of stand-o kind of hairs me out.



Photo: Next time, I swear it- I'm putting that thing right in his face!



Photo: Here's one from Friday- the one that got away.

Manny's super skilled, fired up to get in the water and stoked to shoot stand up surfing. The guy's an animal in the water, swimming into collision courses with barrel and stand-o. Check back and see what makes him tick.

Crank it...

Made it down to the beach just in time to see Mark paddle into this...



And set up for this turn...



Next, I saw Gary sliding into this little hook...



And, I thought, "Hey, I'd like some too..."



JWall was there to watch me paddle out and flounder around, missing opportunities. He did snap these two photos though... and I did finally hook into one that let me....



....crank it!

After the rain...?

One can only hope...!



Photo: Big Brent, bustin'.



Photo: Johnny, jesting.



Photo: Wallop wave?

Paddle Fuel: Throw it together, jam it in your face, go rip cutbacks

Here we go... FUEL for rabid stand up paddlers.

"Refrigerator Sheeeesh-¿que?-bobs"

First rule, don't measure anything. Second rule, only use what's in the refrigerator or cupboards.

1. Open can of pineapple slices you found rusting in the back of the cupboard.

2. Pour juice from can into ziplock bag of chunk-cut chicken, add what's left of the orange juice after you use most of it to make a margarita. On second thought, pour a little Grand Marnier, Triple Sec and, what the hell, dump a shot of tequila in there too. And a teaspoon or so of soy saw (local pronunciation).

3. Chop up a shallot and crush a couple of cloves of garlic. Got some red pepper flakes? Dump 'em in.


Photo: Getting so hungry you can't see straight? Me too!

4. Pinch of salt, close the bag and put it in the fridge while you chop up some veggies to go on the skewer. Red bell pepper, good. Green bell pepper, check. Red onion, yes. Carrot, no. Sliced up pineapple chunks from the rusty can? Nice work...now you're getting the idea!

5. Get out your rice cooker (every surfer's got one, don't you?) two scoops of rice (calrose, always calrose), enough water to reach the first knuckle of your pointer finger (that's not measuring... that's how mom taught me to do it, works every time).

6. When you've finished chopping and you've got the rice cooker going, run outside and fire up the grill... charcoal is better but in the rain go with the gas.


Photo: That grill isn't dirty... it's what we call, seasoned.

7. Pull chicken out of the refrigerator, dump marinade down the sink and run some water after it or if you are just an effing party animal pour it into a tumbler over ice and suck it down. Chicken Sushi Margarita - the last thing you drink before you wake up in the hospital septic from o-ring to o-ring. Just kidding! DO NOT drink the salmonella/e.coli cocktail.... eat the worm, do a shot or open a beer bottle with your teeth (don't do that either) instead.

8. Thread it onto the skewers, slap 'em onto the grill and drink a cold one.

9. Server over steamed rice, maybe some steamed broccoli if you're a health nut.

Extra Credit: If you're trying to impress somebody or if you just into it, go to this website and make the peanut sauce. These ¿que?-bobs go excellent with it. This is by far the easiest, best tasting peanut sauce recipe out there- and it takes almost no time to make with ingredients you can find in your local supermarket. This woman is legit... look over her blog if your a Thai food nut like me.

Got a great recipe you want me to write up "Paddle Fuel" style? Send it to me: john@paddlesurf.net and I'll give it a go.

Stand Up Paddle Barrels Continued...

Awhile back I posted up some poached photos (thanks again LJS) of Gerry Lopez getting barreled somewhere in Indonesia. I dropped the challenge, saying something to the effect of, "these are the first photos I've seen of a paddle surfer getting fully barreled". I even said, "Prove it..." show me other pics of guys getting tube on stand up boards. Well the challenge was met, reader Colas (and Colas, if you have a link to your site, send it to me so I can hook you up) sent me some links that are shit-hot- and, once again, it's those hard chargers at Gong SUP getting the goods. Here's Cola's note to me:

"Gerry Lopez is always a pleasure to see. Note that a Frenchman, "JVB" (Jean Valere Bordenave) has been SUPing G-Land for some years with some nice barrels..."



Click here for more stand up paddle tube riding shots... good stuff! And here too. Charging G-land on a stand up board... killer stuff!