Had a great surf this morning. I love it when there's a south swell in town; the sets come sweeping up the beach. Here's a shot from the front seat- I snapped this right when I pulled up to check it out:
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| Some fun waves- even better, the water warmed up a bit. |
After the usual hour of shooting the breeze with the boys at the street end I jumped in for a quick couple of waves. Just like old times, I turned around and there was Big Chad- cruising down the beach on his custom 10' Stamps (Big Chad is a big boy- his board surf's well and keeps all 250lbs of him high and dry) . We set up camp just inside of the crawlers and grabbed all the left overs. Here's Big Chad cruising:
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| Coming down the line. We've got a cool, little local scene down here. It's not for everyone. It's especially vexing to those who like cake walk paddle channels and the predicta-peak regularity of the north county reef breaks- anybody can surf those waves. Want to impress me? Let's see you make something out of nothing at a snappy beach break- on your backhand. |
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| Big Chad running to the hotel- or what's left of it. |
1 comment:
we need some waves here in NY!
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