You've heard what is said about locals right? Here it is, one of my favorite pieces of surf wisdom: "A local is just a dirt bag who never got his act together enough to travel". I wish I had somebody to credit that to... if you know drop me an email so I can give due 'props.
In the spirit of getting out and finding some, here are a couple of shots my local friend sent me from his recent trip to Central America. Scored. Definitely not a dirtbag. Enjoy:
Photo: If you're in the water and you see this, you're about to get drenched.
Photo: Nope, not a stand up board. But how easily could you superimpose yourself onto this wave? Now just get your act together and do it.
Photo: The cool think about long points like this is that if you stay with them long enough (keep cutting back!) you're bound to score the inside racetrack.
Photo: That wave looks insanely carveable.
Photo: The aforementioned racetrack section.
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