|My buddy Kelly snapped this (and the other photos) with his camera phone- that's me racing down the line.|
|There were some nice peaks out there but the tide was dead low and these things were breaking hard- and it was TOUGH to paddle against the offshore winds and push my stando over the ledge. I definitely got swatted on a couple of those things.|
I love the fall too-put on the first rubber in 6 months-not that i needed to with the sun out today but its a new suit and needed a sesh. Now we need some real swell!
Agreed: some combo-ed up beach break peaks- some light offshores... a crispy, clear California morning surf session followed up with giant pancakes... bliss.
Looks fun, where is this...secret spot?
one of the best post i saw here. Keep it going! Thank you.
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