This one's a quicky: Sketchy internet, hot/humid, cold beers waiting, electricity went out for twelve hours last night- sweat and stick to the sheets. Sitting here at the bar looking at the point... just ordered another round. Watch got ripped off my arm on my first wave. Pounded. Surf: FIRING- did more cutbacks and lippers in the last two days then I did all year long. Head high plus- more coming, geckos, iguanas.
I know you wanted a photo of the surf- too amped to snap any yet. Here's what you do when you're waiting for your flight in LAX.
More to come!