|Very few of you will know where this spot is... and I'm sworn to secrecy. Trust me, that left is as good and as hollow as it looks in the photo. Perfect for a crowd of three.|
|This was our bread and butter spot- a whole hell of a lot easier to get to than the spot above. The surf was good- not great but, once again, the crowd was right and it was sunny and warm.|
|Going left... a good wave, with a rocky bottom and long rides. And not windy- which is normally what happens here. Here's me- having fun on another empty day.|
|This is Nardo... if you know who he is- than you know where we were surfing. Semi-creepy? Yes. A lot creepy.|
nice!-looks so fun-man i love a clean left!
Uh yeah creepy-Nardo looks a little like Anton Suger from No Country
"Can you get those chicken crates out of the back of that truck?!"
Ha! Classic movie reference and the best scene.... love it!
Post a Comment