This is the kind of stuff I like to see: forcing the stand up paddle issue by surfing sucking up, partially closed out, meaty, Southern Orange County beach break. Real surfing. Here's what Will had to say about it:
"Hobie 8.6... Kinley broke his Nectar here on a different day. Once, I got pinned to the bottom for a fifteen count. Lucky for us it's a sand bottom but sand can still break your neck. You can see me starting to unweight the front edge here- basically a survival move. A big toe's worth of pressure on that front inside rail and you pearl up to your ballzack, then it's a face full of sand and you get flexed into a pretzel. My home break, love it!"
1 comment:
Epic shot-
WB is the man at TAB!
No way im taking Spicollisan there!
That little wedge is like Waimea Bay shorebreak-you can feel your stringerless-carbon rail board actually tremble as you paddle out-not for the faint of heart or the stringerless of board.
plus from the cliffs there are several back in the day neophytes tossing flaming bags of excrement at you if you sup-WB is a brave man, if not occasionally covered in flaming feces!...
Jon
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