I guess it must have seemed like it was too high tide. For some reason, nobody paddled to the peak that Dr. John and I were working over. We were laughing as we'd split the peak again and again. There were four other guys surfing the peak at Cages and a couple more to the north but that was it. I came out of the water feeling like I could tear phone books in half. It was that good. On it again tomorrow... pinch me so I know today wasn't a dream- going to be tough sleeping tonight.
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| Kind of like this. Photo courtesy of Manny Vargas. |
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