Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Biggest south swell I never saw...

Time to reset the compass... find true north again. Basically, the first big south of the season lit up the coast like a roman candle- and I saw none of it. Something's very wrong with that picture. Friends called in with reports of long period, southern-hemi lines sliding through slick, glassy water. One of my favorite LA county, right handers was going off a couple feet overhead- and my overworked, high powered, can't-ever-get-out-of-the-office buddy surfed it with just two other stand up surfers.  It's definitely time to get my feet back into the wax. Find my rhythm, compress and release, get her flying, load up the fin- that kind of stuff. Man, I've got to go surfing. 

I know what the problem's been. I've been concentrating (wasting my time?) on a couple new distractions- like a dog chasing it's tail, running hard to get nowhere- for nothing. But things are becoming clearer for me now. I'm waking up, coming to my senses. And those little voices are telling me to get out there and back to the source- wake up early, hit the road, head south, head north... whatever it takes. I know that routine; cup of coffee, tank of gas and the open road. Point me in the right direction- I'm ready.

I'll keep you posted.

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