I've got a couple minutes here to throw up some shots- check 'em out:
Big boy coming down the line. I know it looks small (it was) and I know it seems flat (kind of) but this is one really fun wave. I like it because it throws up so many different sections. If you want to surf it well, you've got to read the thing as it unfolds in front of you. It's challenging because it's a long wave with different sections to it. One particular spot throws up a fast little wall, perfect for a little speed run to cutback. But if you get too cocky and cut back too deep on the fat part, the wave will hit a little shallow spot, pick up speed, and run away from you. All the change ups make it super fun- I could surf it all day.
Well this happened twice; flat tire. Not a problem in Mexico- there's a llantera (tire man) in every little village. This time it was a rusty nail. I've seen sidewalls punctured by large twigs! Always check the spare before you need it. If you come out of the water to a dead tire and find your spare's flat, your life becomes a little more difficult. The tire guys down there are superb- we were up and out of there with two patches in about twenty minutes.
Dreamy. Send me back!