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Tuesday, November 18, 2008

I'm just effing stoked!

What a difference a pre-work surf session can make. I don't know if you know - but in addition to feeding this blog I'm also a high school science teacher. I teach Chemistry, everybody's favorite subject. One of the cool things about where I live and work is that both my home and the school I work at are only five blocks from the beach.

Even better, every other day I've got a "surf period". I don't need to check in until 9:30am. Given time and proximity, anything is possible. The kids that see me right after I get out of the water are stoked too- for some reason I'm so happy on those surf days. Like I said, what a difference a little surf session can make. And this is especially true when the beach looks like this:



This is all one wave. Check out the runner- she's got no idea about the potential six second barrel reeling just off shore.



That's what we, in the industry, call an open barrel. Squint your eyes and imagine yourself stuffed into that hole.



Traveling, traveling... suddenly a misplaced chunk of lip throws out five yards down the line, now you're even more throated....



But you can feel the hot, Santa Ana winds holding up the face, compressing into the tube, swirling into the barrel...



The thing pauses for a second and then expands from the inside out, it's just inhaled and gotten even hollower, weird things happen that far back...



You site down your extended front arm, knowing that where it points you will follow...



You've been shacked for way too long- but the thing just won't shut down on you and you just keep travelling....



You can see the water's turned from green to white to brown- you can feel bits of sand in the water as the spray hits your face- it's getting shallow... when will this thing end....



And then... pop, you're out. You feel the warm sun on your face and suddenly you remember to breathe. Shoot, maybe you won't assign homework tonight after all.

Stand up paddle surf lessons in San Diego- get 'em while they're HOT! Give us a call at 619.213.6622 or email john@paddlesurf.net. Need more info? Click here - be sure to check out the testimonials section- people are stoked on us!

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