Photo: Such a clean wave and a left... screw foot paradise.
Photo: The Leper and I had a nice chat about this photo. One of the challenges of getting barreled on a stand up board is controlling your speed. These boards are just fast, they're so wide and get in so early that unless you can scrub speed you'll shoot right past a potential barrel. Here, the Leper brings it out onto the flats, pauses a beat and lays it over- hoping for a better position in the hook and for a bit slower entry into the pocket. Nice line, Mr. Leper.
Photo: The waiting game... watching the lip line, hoping the bottom drops out and willing the curtain to fall.
Photo: Cool photo... the Leper, great day, clean wave. Nice job.
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