This one was just too hot to hold onto any longer. Read this Gerry Lopez piece and tell me how you feel. Talk about that sinking feeling.... the realization that, well, it's really, VERY, big. I don't know about you but when I see there's a Lopez piece in a surf mag, I go directly for it. The guy writes like he surfs; a clean line from start to finish- no useless embellishment, no head snaps, no claims... I'm a big fan. Check this out:
Clang, clang, clang... here's where I'm at: "...send not to know for whom the bell tolls, it tolls for thee". Thanks to Clay Feeter at Stand Up Journal for sending me this piece from the upcoming Spring Issue (you'll have to wait until March 21st for it to hit bookstores and surf shops, if you subscribe it's on the way today).
Just a note on Feeter: Here's how I find out about this piece. Clay drops an email in my box- homeboy is absolutely frothing, going nuts, "John, get this one out there, it's going to turn everyone's guts". Oooh, I like stuff like that. I'm like a shark- a little scent of excitement and I get whipped into a frenzy too... here's to feeding the stoke! And, oh yeah, I've got a couple of behind the scenes photos of that crew over there coming any day now.
Reads like a familiar situation, feeling, and outcome....
Sounds like you might have been there a few times... eh, old chap?
Except you never saw 'em coming through the fog... just a rumble then... BAM!
Is that about right?
Wow, chicken skin. Even Gerry knows that he has limits. Cool. Understated. Humble. Gerry.
I feel ..... humbled. Gerry Lopez's ability to express his inner feelings towards surfing, snowboarding, and SUP is summed up in his Mission Statement he wrote for his SRF (Surf Realization Fellowship). Something we should all live by.
I feel .... humbled. If you haven't read Gerry Lopez's SRF (Surf Realization Fellowship) Mission Statement, by all means, do so. Gerry's ability to express his inner feelings towards surfing, snowboarding, and SUP is summed up in this Mission Statement he wrote for SRF. Truly a Mission Statement to live by.
now your trying to hurt my feelings, I got all those shots and more last october & november when JL sent em to my paddle partner billy (who JL grew up with)
and I think I mentioned to you then that they would be in a mag in a few months but I was so stoked I wanted to pass them on to you. A little side note on paddling with jerry, He was 1st in the ten miler in the battle of the paddle and butch was second, I plan on not having that happen this year. Even though I've heard something about the best laid plans....cheers
Sometimes you can see them (or hear them!) coming and they still get you.
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