Sunday, October 28, 2007
Another fun morning in the water. Unfortuntately, this swell is on its way out.
Funny, I remember reading in Surfer Magazine an editorial about the maximum number of days that a person could surf good waves consecutively. I think it was Sam George who wrote the piece and I remember he asked guys like Tom Curren what the limit was for them; each of them agreed, independently, that it was somewhere between four and six days in a row.
At the time, I remember thinking that was ridiculous. Now, I 'm not so sure. We just had a nice six day swell that provided good waves on a daily basis. Each day delivered four hours of glassy morning zippers followed by an evening tube session. If you wanted it, you could put in six hours of surfing assuming you could get your arms moving again.
I'm now at day six and, guess what? I'm cooked. I almost passed it up this morning in favor of pancakes with the family. My cup of 7-11's finest and an extended conference with the boys at the end of Date street almost took away any chance of a morning surf- maybe subconsciously I wanted it that way. Finally, a clean left, peeling from pier to sand, stoked the dying surf-ember in me and I hopped in for a quick hour and a half run down to the rivermouth.
That Surfer magazine piece still haunts me though. And the question remains- if it was absolutely firing barrels all day long, how long could I last? Don't really know, but I'd love to find out. How about you?