Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Beach break barrels

You had to catch it just right: tide, crowd and wind. If you worked it out, or just got lucky then you know how good it got today. Phenomenal, unreal, stupid-good. The guys surfing the right were getting unbelievable tubes- deep clean and fast. Shallow too- some guy got butt bounced and had to crawl up onto the sand. I tried my best but we're talking doubling up, pop up peaks with no real set take off spot- tough conditions for stand up. I'm out there again tomorrow!

Here's a few from the paddle camera:

Photo: Looking for an escape route.

Photo: Pedal to the metal.

Photo: Caveman squat.

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