You had to catch it just right: tide, crowd and wind. If you worked it out, or just got lucky then you know how good it got today. Phenomenal, unreal, stupid-good. The guys surfing the right were getting unbelievable tubes- deep clean and fast. Shallow too- some guy got butt bounced and had to crawl up onto the sand. I tried my best but we're talking doubling up, pop up peaks with no real set take off spot- tough conditions for stand up. I'm out there again tomorrow!
Here's a few from the paddle camera:
Photo: Looking for an escape route.
Photo: Pedal to the metal. ![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1F8pPGrwwy0-YoBhlZslRJ9J-mqK_eqB4BTQ3Hhd860_RsT4tx74fJqzr6wegHYDNfnq2ysGEN-ToxVRPKk_x9gk91kKYzfCmWJTrxe_Moj6mg5w5F6qcABG6o4A-me9vmZb7pkb3se8/s400/bocatube.jpg)
Photo: Caveman squat.
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