Ever had one of those sessions where you thought you were just paddling out to get wet, hoping to just catch a few, but not really expecting anything special. That is exactly what I had today. Sure there were some gnarly looking fast paced barrels breaking right out front, but I wasn't feeling like they were makeable on my paddle board. I chose to move down the beach and try my luck with a fun but usually mushy break. What I found was wonderful. Instead of it's usual mushy self I found a walled up, peeling left that made my heart pound! So much fun, if you were out there somewhere I am sure you know what I am talking about.
Typical in between sets wave.
Plenty of wave to do full top and bottom turns!
OOPS!
Nothing like having a view between sets!
3 comments:
dude mr.ashley those waves are straight gnarley. do you mind if i could come out with you in the morning and tred some waves broskies?
john the waves where awsome missed you down there captneg9.freshy coming.
chad we scored.captneg9.oh it got better right when you got out.got worked on a 1 notch 6wave set right at dark.
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