Ever had one of those sessions where you thought you were just paddling out to get wet, hoping to just catch a few, but not really expecting anything special. That is exactly what I had today. Sure there were some gnarly looking fast paced barrels breaking right out front, but I wasn't feeling like they were makeable on my paddle board. I chose to move down the beach and try my luck with a fun but usually mushy break. What I found was wonderful. Instead of it's usual mushy self I found a walled up, peeling left that made my heart pound! So much fun, if you were out there somewhere I am sure you know what I am talking about.
Nothing like having a view between sets!