Every so often somebody would call home and get a surf report. Each time they called, the report would be the same: "It's flat, cold and wet- stay down there and enjoy the sunshine". So we did. It really didn't matter if there was surf or not. In fact, flat water just meant that we'd be able to get in a nice paddle either up or down the point. Fortunately, we did manage to score some small surf- small but shapely and super fun.
Here's a bunch of photos from different days at the point:
Photo: This was from the offshore day. When the tide turned around and started pushing high again- this peak started firing. I'm probably about five beers deep here- it's the only explanation I can give for taking pictures rather than sprinting for the water.
Photo: Sometimes all you can do is sit and watch it all happen around you. And this is easier to do if the water's sapphire blue and holding steady in the mid 70's.
Photo: It's looking like Matt Wilson coming full steam down the point on a nice little lump. It's nothing spectacular but it's still the kind of day that'd draw a mob back at home.
Photo: Another day, farther up the point at the "hidden left". On mixed swells this little peak will start to work- from down on the point, it doesn't look like much. You've either got to walk or paddle up there to see what's really going on- which makes it a perfect spot for the stand up board. I spent the afternoon catching wave after wave all alone while fifty yards away a wave starved pack of prone surfers fought it out for anything even close to rideable. Eventually, a girl surfer named Catherine made the paddle up and kindly asked if it'd be alright to surf the peak with me. Great manners but totally unnecessary with me- I'd been feeding off that thing for an hour and a half and I welcomed her company. She was easy on the eyes.
Photo: Going right- happy and stoked as a grom. Baja rules!
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