Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Swimming: Part I

Sure enough I cursed myself when I told Dave that I hadn't snapped a leash yet. I made it sound like it couldn't be done with the 9'4. It only took me about five seconds to realize that I'd be the one swimming that afternoon. I even told Dave, he just laughed. I wondered how far out I'd be when it happened.

The karmic watch dogs have a way of keeping us humble and when I felt the cord separate from the swivel with a little snap (stretch, stretch... tick... just like that it's gone) I wasn't too surprised. I knew I had it coming.

The waves weren't huge. The biggest ones, pushed themselves up way outside, stood up on the outer reef, walked right over it and broke right where we were sitting. Call it double overhead, maybe a foot or two more on the big ones. Not life threatening but big enough to throw an easterly shadow completely over you as you turned to catch the things.

It was fun, the waves were like big water hills. The rights were short, basically a big drop all the way to the bottom followed by a swooping, thigh burning bottom turn and maybe a couple of big hooking cutbacks. The lefts were a bit more lined up. If you caught the right one and had the balls to fade right before going left, you could put yourself right up into the high pocket of a freight train of a wave. At that point, you went into a full-on, front-foot, peddle to metal speed run. The left is a longer wave but it's got teeth and if you screw up, there's dues to be paid. Something I was about to learn a lot more about.

To be continued...


Tony Dakine said...

I know the feeling all too well. Seriously, if you find a Creatures of Leisure Outer Reef leash, compare it to any other heavy duty leash and you'll be amazed at the difference in quality and durability. They are rare in Hawaii. My friend found 3 at Hawaiian South Shore and bought them all. Gave one to me out of sympathy. All I can say is I would bungee jump head first over concrete with one.

Anonymous said...

Welcome to my world!

Jeff Wallis said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Jeff Wallis said...

Swimmin is good for ya! Us old farts did NOT use them there leashes back in the stone age lol!

John Ashley said...

Hey TDK,

I know that you know! I thought I'd read that you made the big swim through Tiger territory... no fun!

I'll go check out those leashes... our local surf shop owner is a cool guy if it can be gotten... he'll get it. I'll even grab one for you and the next time your out this way you can pick it up.

Rip 'em!

Anonymous said...

The Spiderman knows that when you go left you leave the channel behind. Sounds like you would have passed the IB lifguard test of the 60's.
Spiders brohter

John Ashley said...


Welcome back... I thought you went full Argo bush on me- couple of snaps of you on that horseback had me convinced.

I'm still not paddling into the "Deathzone" on the big days. You know what I'm talking about.

John Ashley said...

Hey Wallis- is that back when they carved the boards out of granite... real stoneage stuff for you "old timers".