Photo: Things start off pretty gnarly... how about that landmine right in front of the Leper?
Photo: There something called, "positive ocular response" which is a fancy phrase for, "if you look at it you will hit it". The Lep's not falling into that trap. Clever boy.
Photo: And just when you thought it was safe to wrap a cutty... up looms the next tombstone. Is this some kind of ding repair guy's nightmare?
2 comments:
I'm torn... I love me some glassy rights, but I hate catching a wave and just going straight down the line. props to this guy though, backside through some unforgiving territory! wonder how this spot gets when it's bigger??
I agree that going straight can be boring... but it was fun to try to ride this to the end, staying in the pocket... and getting out clean. I was paddling back out for a set wave, and this little runner came... I thought, "You will never know if you don't go..." and just tried to run it out to the end. When it gets bigger, this spot gets mean, fun, and mean. I have donated many, many fins, square inches of fiberglass, and shards of skin to Neptune at this particular boneyard.
Tim
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