Total Pageviews

Sunday, August 22, 2010

The Surf Spot Super Computer.

We all want to score fun waves. To win in this game, you need to interpret the tell-tales, the little clues and subtle signs that mother nature waggles in your face. Some are easy to see: the way a flag points or the angle of a wave train as it approaches the beach. Others are a little more low-key, a little extra static in the air, a little extra dessicative irritation in the nose.... a whiff of burning chaparral (here come those Santa Anas or is it Santana's in the old timer's parlance). Either way, they mean nothing unless the old supercomputer between the ears can make some sense of it all and concoct an early morning surf strategy.

Here's a simple example of surf spot calculus: Winds out of the north you go to ___(fill in the blank)___. Winds out of the south then it's a run to ____(fill in the blank)___. And that's just for dealing with wind direction. Now, factor in tide shift and magnitude, swell direction and period and, most important of all, proximity to a solid breakfast burrito. What you're looking at is a complex, multi-variable equation that hopefully barfs up a surf spot when it's all said and done.

Big Chad and I put our heads together and came up with a lumpy Sunday solution. Our calculations were spot on- we scored some fun little waves. We got it all except for that breakfast burrito (every calculation involves a margin of error, right?)... but there's always next time- as long as the conditions call for it. 


Photo: Big Chad, rolling in... Waikiki comes to San Diego, well almost- the water was in the low 60s.


Photo: Big Chad- a little surprise section... and a tube for the end of his paddle.


Photo: Perfect conditions for my big 10'6 Stamps Ninja Bump.

Check back Monday night for the little video I cobbled together... I call it, "Study in Yellow"

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Chad, So u get out of the surf, your
in a full suit, u say the waters
cold very, your feet hurt and a hour or so
later ur trunkin it?
IT MUST BE THE MAGIC JETTY.
THE MAGIC JETTY STOPS SAND,POLLUTION
AND NOW WATER TEMP.
K JUNK

John Ashley said...

The MAGIC JETTY!!!