Saturday, February 16, 2008

Once Again: Just when you think it's gonna be good!

I'm getting reports of good surf up and down the coast. It's killing me! We're not getting it here in my town. Two days in a row I've been up early anticipating a morning of good surf only to be let down. Yesterday, I had lower G.I. issues. There was sewage running through me like a freight train in my transverse colon. Evidently, this has been going around. Is it food poisoning or the forerunners of a nasty flu? Sorry if that's too graphic but it's been brutal. I did get a chance to check some spots up the coast from my house, didn't have the courage to strap on a wetsuit, that would have been too much of a commitment. It sucks to be locked in when you really need to go.

Today I felt a little more solid (pun intended). I was up before it was light, from my backyard I could hear the surf cracking on the beach, sounded pretty substantial out there. At first light I was rolling down to the check out spot. It's been really cold the last couple of mornings, the kind of cold that makes you wish you put your wetsuit on at home instead of shivering into it while standing barefoot on a concrete ice block. These cold mornings alter the decision making process; if it's not looking really good I won't be surfing, the motivation just isn't there. I've got to be inspired to paddle out on these kind of mornings.

Call me a fair weather surfer but that's just the way it's gone for me these last couple of years. The decision, however, was already made for me: the signs were up. The water was polluted by the last rain two days ago and a word of mouth report had it at legitimately stinky. The surf was definitely up, there were some long period, organized waves rolling in but the direction wasn't working for our beach, most waves were closing out. No surfing at home today. Maybe the DogPatch tomorrow, early!

And: The lifeguards are putting together a co-ed team for the Stand Up Paddle division of the Catalina race. I've loaned them one of my 12' boards for training purposes but they're looking for an open ocean downwind racer to borrow for the race. If you're interested in sponsoring the team, or if you just have a legit downwind board for them to borrow they'd be stoked! Let me know.


srfnff said...


You live too close to the beach. You must put your wetsuit on at home, much harder to back out when you've got to take it off dry.

Got to get you up here for some toughening up in 32 degree morning temps. Salvation is sunrise and solar gain. Much warmer in the dawn patrol when it's overcast and 40 degrees...ha, ha.

Sorry you got the shizits, hopefully not the flu. It's crackin' up here and a drop dead gorgeous day too. Gotta get it while we can, storm's comin' next week.

Anonymous said...

hey what's up with the D.P.? what is that

Anonymous said...

eack dude get this I go into work this morning and the first thing one of my manager tells me is I have to be in at 9 A.M. to setup the step through the door!...ONE!!! now I can't do dawn patrol...(frowny face)

John Ashley said...

Of course you are right Gary- I've got nothing to complain about compared to the real iceblocks you guys have to stand on!

John Ashley said...

Gabe- learn this lesson. Never look back, when leaving work, when leaving home for a surf.... never look back. A cheap life lesson for you!