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Monday, June 28, 2010

And what about this SOUTH SWELL!!!!

Hope you all have been getting out and getting wet. I have. Check out what's come rolling through town the last few days:


Photo: Sean Poynter getting all gumby to get into the barrel... you're going to want to check out Manny Vargas' website tomorrow night to see his take on this little cover up (that's his water housing sticking out of the lip).


Photo: Enough barrels to go around... how's this one?


Photo: Kelly Kraus, pre-surf stretch... getting ready to handle a somewhat nasty, thumpy, beachbreak on the way out to the wave field.


Photo: The south swell was actually a combo situation with a southern hemisphere pulse mixed up with the steep angle surf of a hurricane off of Baja. The result was a somewhat crossed up situation- tough to unscramble and demanding an ability to quickly pivot turn your board to catch the pop up peaks bouncing around out there.


Photo: Kelly, off the top. Rumor has it there's another shorter Rusty stand up in the works right now... I'll keep you posted.


Photo: Jeff Wallis always seems to pop up when the sun is out and the surf is up. Heck, he even shoots me once in a while... Thanks Wally!


Photo: Floating it on down. I remember this wave, I came off the bottom (right around my friend Coconut) and went up into the lip but I screwed up and the board kind of stuck in the lip as it came over. So there I was drifting down sideways thinking I was going to catch my rail and go down- but I lucked out and pulled it- thanks to the moderate amount of nose flip in my 9'1... loving this board.


Photo: Same wave... this was a good one, I got two little lippers and a cutback on it... digging summertime!

2 comments:

Sheldon said...

right on John, school is out and it looks like you've been scoring down there!!

I haven't been able to hit the water much cause I got so much stuff going on. on a side note, do you still use your gopro paddle mount? I found your write-up and I was thinking about trying it... I pulled the trigger this past weekend on a gopro hd cause my original gopro is long lost at sea. hopefully I'll get back into it and start getting some interesting shots for the blog! cheeee!!

John Ashley said...

Hey Sheldon!

Do you see those two or three hits a day on your site that are coming from South SD? That's me!

Feed the blog... she's getting hungry. Just kidding... I know you're super busy... I remember the year leading up to my wedding... as you say- cheeee.

I do, on occasion use the paddle mount with my go-pro. I stopped using it so much because it got a little played out... but I still like the angle of the shot and if the sun ever comes out again, I'll hook it back up. Those GPs are fun.

It's super easy to do and you've got all the stuff there to do it- just cut that white disk and you're set.

Right on Sheldon- talk more soon.

John