Editor's Note: Maybe you've noticed that there are a couple of "team members" here at Paddlesurf.net. We've got Big Chad, Kylie K., Wally (who's dropped off the face of the earth... where you at Wally?), Mystic Oaron and probably the most fired up, southern-boy paddler that I know- Captain Ron. The good Captain holds court in Florida, shapes his own stand up boards (been shaping for decades it turns out) and every now and then throws together a nice little piece for ol' p.net. We're stoked to have him and I for one get fired up like a possum on moonshine (is that "southern" enough, Ron?) when I see he's thrown something onto the site. Check out his vintage photos in this next piece- they're killer:
Dreaming of surf trips in the near future makes me look back to trips long past, a few faded old polaroid pictures of some good times deep in the Central American jungle. These were the days when a trip to Centro America was an adventure. took 8 hours to get anywhere and the possibility of losing the 4x4 rental car in a river was a 1 in 4 chance. Worth it? Hell Yeah!
(photo) Jaco Beach Costa Rica back when Jaco was still a cow pasture... Me sliding down a fun easy left with my buddy Shawn taking a shot with a disposable water camera. The cross A's in the pic was my old surfboard label. Yeah, I rode shortboards once upon a time.
This is probably the most beautiful right point I have ever seen. Its called Back Wash Bay. Right after this pic of me taking off the wave gets hit by the back wash from the steep beach and goes from a friendly head high to double over head, you really have to be ready or you will get launched 20ft in the air. Oh yeah the very sharp rock lava flow is just a few feet under my board. But what a fun wave, Scarlet macaws in the trees on the beach, Monkeys and the occasional jaguar. You cross 3 rivers to get to this wave and nearest powerline and town was hours away.
(Photo) The cantina on one of the longest lefts in the world, Pavones. This was a good trip, the take off was 20+ foot on the face for 2 weeks straight. Pretty sick. Even though I am a regular footer, I don't care- this wave kicks azz.
(Photo) Now this is a secret left poimt and probably the most magical wave I have ever riden. It breaks well over a mile ride one start to finish and you won't see your friends for a hour and the walk back up the point to the paddle out area is over 2000 steps for me. I counted once.
(Photo) Pavones one more time going off. Yep, that is me doing the backside lowtide Pavones stay-high-don't-catch-a-fin-on-a-rock-and-run-for-all-you-can manuever. At high tide it breaks up where my wife was taking the pic from. What a bunch of fun...
Peace and good travels to all,