Total Pageviews

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Welcome home: Was I really just surfing 200 yard long roping left-handers?

Jetting around globe is a trip. You can be surfing crystal blue, head high, Mexican peelers with girls in bikinis in the morning and by six that evening you're fighting the urge to push a lowered Tercel off the edge of the 405. Blink once, surfing bliss. Blink twice, it's a gray April, Southern California afternoon.

Best memory of this trip: "Hey, thanks for yesterday". Me: "What?". Girl: "You probably don't even remember do you?" Me: "No..." Girl: "You shouted me into that wave- the first and only one I caught that afternoon. It was great!" Me: "Oh yeah! You were on the Harbour longboard, right?" Girl: "Yeah! Thanks!" Me: Smile.

In surfing, share.

No comments: