I'm too big, not going to fit!
OUCH! That was my knee popping as the wave knocked and twisted my feet from the board.
That paddle in the air is soon to be smacking the top of my head and the front corner of my board. This is also about the time when I was bouncing off the rail.
When it is all said and done I am stoked. Sure I bounced off of my board twice, the paddle banged me in the head and it put a nice little mark on my board as well. But, I do have a snapshot of that moment that I will not soon forget. There is nothing like being surrounded by the ocean in a nice green room, even if it is only for a few seconds, and even if a little punishment is dished out.