Surf in town means plans change. Our surgical strike to the SK Factory had to be postponed because, guess what? All those guys are rabid, foaming at the mouth, surf dogs- and if there's surf to be had, they're on it. So you go with the flow, surf and don't worry about it; and that's what we did.
Here's a couple of photos of my little brother surfing in Santa Cruz. Mike was the first guy out at Privates, had to punch through a couple of head high walls of whitewash, had an asthma attack just outside the lineup and then felt like puking once he got worked a bunch of times. He lucked into a tweener, rode it for as long as he could and then had to wash in down by the Capitola Pier.
This part of Santa Cruz is just a giant series of right points so the southerly current was cranking. According to Mike, everybody was getting washed down and a few got stuck in high tide coves with no way out. Those guys were the lucky ones. In Monterey, a surfer lost his life swimming in for his lost board in big surf.
Stand up boards can get you in trouble real fast. At spots with channels, and with our extra mobility, I can foresee unprepared surfers getting into bad situations. Imagine losing your board to a swing-wide set at some heavy water offshore reef. If you can't free swim the distance, you shouldn't paddle it. With our ability to cover miles of water you might be looking at a mile or more of open water swimming. How many of us have been putting in the pool time to crank out a couple of hours of that kind of activity? Just something to consider when it gets big out there.