Saturday, January 26, 2008
Everybody is a Comedian: Look what was in my driveway early this morning!
I don't know if it's a trophy or a warning or just a reminder of my stylistic highpoints but this is really funny! Had a good time walking around the beach this morning accusing all the usual suspects. And everybody denied it! I suspect somebody with the initials GT or maybe even BH, hmmm am I correct?
Fun surf out there this morning. A big highlight: Matt W. getting completely barreled on an offshore righthander. Pretty text book tube ride: easy glide in, set the rail, slow the board with a Pinky-style blade drag and pull in. Matty knows how to plug the hole- best part was he had a front row witness who watched the curtain fall and the clean exit- a legit barrel on an 11'11" Ordonez Big Red.
Kiwi was out on his new Stu Kenson 10'x28" snagging all the good ones. This is the second time in a row he's paddle out from out of nowhere and pulled the Tom Curren "mysto-wave-magnet" thing. It's obvious he's getting a feel for that board, he's going fast and making some meaty sections.
Photos middle and bottom: Kiwi on the blue Stu Kenson quad surfing clean and fast. Photos: El Tigre
This is a rush job post because I've got to get back in the water. I already logged three water hours this morning, my back's tired, my arms are tired, my legs rubbery but we've hit a seam in this storm front procession and it's four foot and glassy out of the South; have to take advantage of it! Hope you're getting some too.