All in a day's work

I checked the surf five different times before I finally scored some fun waves. The morning check was a bust; south wind bringing on the dreaded "morning sickness". And the much anticipated north-westerly swell was an early morning no show. What a bummer.

I finally did get into the water around noon. The wind had finally backed off and there was bit of glass but the tide was too low. On the upside, some lines from were beginning to show and I could tell that if I waited a few more hours it might pay off.

But, the water here in San Diego has jumped up to about 66 degrees (Matt W.'s estimate) which makes it legitimately trunk-able. And there were a few zippers to be grabbed- all in all making it kind of irresistible. I did an hour and a half beach cruise making something from basically nothing, fun but not really satisfying.

The best session of the day was the result of a surprise visit. A friend dropped by to tell me she'd been hired by the beach guards (congratulations Janet!) and, by the way, "have you checked the surf?". It wasn't firing but it was dead glassy, and the tide was rising. We ended up scoring a super fun, wedging little left that ran along a bar before bottoming out in a hole right next to the beach. A sweet little rip had formed in the hole which completed the circuit; ride the left to the beach until the hole killed it and then ride the rip back out to do it all over again. A sweet way to end a hot day at the beach.

Can't wait to see what tomorrow morning will bring- hope you're feeling the same way!


Top Photo: The local crew, every beach and every street end's got their cast of characters.

Middle Photo: The Lopez surf check.

Bottom Photo: Early morning grom attack.