I remember this little right hander: Took off with a little wall stretched out in front of me- didn't think it'd hold up. Came off the bottom with as much projection as I could get out of my board- really had to throw my back arm forward to get down the line with speed.
Came off the top and snapped it around by dragging my paddle in the face- that's a good trick, keep the paddle on the shore side so that you can use it to pull you off the top.
As I'm coming down from the little top turn I see it start to line up into the pier- I could tell it was going to run pretty fast so I just eased up onto the board and picked my trim line on the little wall ahead of me.
The little lip was pitching right behind me and over my head- I wasn't tubed but I was definitely traveling right in the pocket. I tried to pull up higher by dropping my hand off the paddle and grabbing the outside rail, pigdog style, but the wave was just too small and there was nowhere for me to squeeze into- so I just ran with it. A super fun little wave!
I totally agree..."t"... radical.
Post a Comment