It all pretty much came together on Sunday morning. The forecast was for "light offshore winds" but what we got were October-like, Nor-Easters that were like a sweet, Fall, Santa Ana blow. Couple the great wind direction with a new south groundswell sweeping across fat high tide sand bars and what you end up with are fun, workable waves....finally!
Photog Jeff Wallis is holding out. He snapped a few from the beach today with his new 50D Canon and from his report there were some, "good ones in there". We're holding our breath for them- I'm thinking front-lit classic California surfshots with feathering lips and nice green water. Let's see 'em Wallis!
Here's a couple more from the archives:
Backside top turns on a stand up board are tough to do. That's a lot of board and rail to get up into the lip- if you're going to do it you've got to really throw your whole upper body into it and...
...finish the turn by pulling the front arm back around. Close the door with your front arm and your board will follow. Both Photos: Kylie K.
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