Hey Guys and Gals: If you haven't checked it out yet, the newest issue of the Stand Up Journal is pretty spectacular. Here's how you can get a sneak peek. Click here.
And, because I promised I'd finish out the sequence before I left for Baja, here's the last frames of the wave I started surfing a few posts back:
Retreat! When the nose starts to plow (check out how close the board is to pearling), it's time to move back on the board. No shuffling- you crossed it forward now cross it back.
In this shot, I'm trimming the board trying to make speed to beat the little section that's shutting down on me. Look how close together my feet are; don't even ask, I have no idea, that's just the way I surf.
That 9'6" has got a lot of speed. Here I'm just letting the board run around this little corner.
And, finally, finish every wave clean. Always make it a point to pull out nicely at the end.