![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUCQvaHTgIacg4GhBOchztm7JNg44KJ4W6MdDkXf63mLxKjkoc-hANQGQasyPLFP0KAFFmTNte-pS9ToT0EPfJIW5E8TvNML9xinaOFQSccv_iBEjMKI-IubmNz03BXBaPwNTgQHWbsGsW/s320/1210h.jpg)
Jammed down to the pier and peeked through to the south side. Way out the back... going off; knew I was at the wrong spot so I whipped a U-turn and headed to "the spot".
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfdDca35lai4zFcdjn-rTeDGqXoISd6EXRIN6J-KtdUWOaVCC0rb85RR2Y7oMZAJRLHHsP-3bhSMC2grsf4pS1Yt_I83HFXQ3CFfcI30qWuuu562JzKAdJSrxA5Mz4ll792lS5EWHhuc6f/s320/post2.jpg)
It was going off...
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrlbmNqGoMxtHLiOoYh2kzIVwMCWI0CM_2Q7apD9xKF8O7n5sEwEAGIKGXNrAfZZWEKfTBc9Bt1-s3irZ0NYs3RxqF1t-i1GD9AoTUbV-p1qr8I7rM0-qyvQBrrthie-VeQdjbm0rYH_ap/s320/1210a.jpg)
So I suited up as fast as I could and paddled out through the super hairy, ultra-gnarly beachbreak, heart pounding, hoping I wouldn't get caught by one of the death-sets that were rolling through. Had good karma- squeeked out.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilCBTMh5qR4K4IWE8CWBMs7CIhk9V-7D8bdOMN-5ts6i5ea0b8hqpsZg1Qw3EwbdjG5OPWdbLJL5iQNU6rM1deXfzIWPm98Xgf6dmdzJIgoc0tpfKdz1gv8e6Pfsj0it0yBOxPGoS5mAIE/s320/1210b.jpg)
Paddled way out until I was right on the thick section of a big, lined up left-hander that was coming through every now and again.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZbQqMjBfYpeq2v3Qxs3MIxUUQX_V2jmBSeXATsFHa-YMx1vP4N9NR5Pp2r_LPY25Jx7L3QP49hmOC4bLBdb3bDKdd1fEpkJ_crM1FWK3II2bBe0-v4I3DIPcw9XkyxukIwj8dL3w00eZF/s320/1210c.jpg)
Snagged one! Fade to the right...
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLnAcSB36OzmkaK-77-QIzx11E9Pwm7M9deePm4kfuZNiBN2SXHdemFjRbPswYFF_7LGbbHkkBI3NGRjJsIRrZGtjsqCtZy5TWuDeaAy2RdGGsHCDWZsbhpJd9TgkKMV6pPauv69LFhpMu/s320/1210d.jpg)
...swing to the left!
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiggaT7wEbEfZTSFlmLPro310xisEEEslNDhuThge4XhTkOUglbYSVIJnnkSk5paU2MS7odt-1wRfMqcxZL0KINbZNok0p4XTHzrkYvjMcG4UpoQ1lORHz4OAZQodHXQusa4IhYbM_5Qccm/s320/1210g.jpg)
And then start pumping for all that you've got. The waves looked pretty manageable but once you got out there you realized that there was a lot of wall to deal with. In addition the wave was fairly full down at the base- if you dropped too low at the wrong time you'd slow way down and get left behind. The key was to keep a high line, right in the hook and haul ASS.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKw11Piaujj5qeHKIeLGMcbrUI-CaqSBpGMCrpZAA7pFdxX6HVqKO6YipkaoPMFMWoziNJV0DGPFkcI7nE3N8eqm56Lfo7M_gcAWMR-hb1pDJarM4oOlZXxKx1nTGaRuKsu1nBMnzTo7xI/s320/1210f.jpg)
Of course, once you start getting comfortable, you start taking chances... like dropping way low and trying to pull up into the hook of the wave. Most of the waves I surfed today ran fifty to eighty or so yards up the beach. All lefts.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2uEQ0GCCAfq-s2Bhqn93NJeAH-40hzZISb06tlCs7Nl57oS0YYIcz2fiUjDquE73icpPCsT_SdclJ5KDntHTDYia8XN6pBmwb7UNswsYuwKIszkjgIghT0TMSkpEc4FApUS5G4DguABoG/s320/1210e.jpg)
I was getting tired and my free time was running out, so I rode this one all the way to the beach and called it a day. We've got rain coming now and I'm sure I won't be able to surf for the next four or five days so I'd call this session a huge score. Stoked- hope you got some too!
2 comments:
Hey John - you scored! Love dat stuff.
Would've been more fun with a couple more guys on it... it got spooky!
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