I'm so tired right now it's hard to write all that I'd like to. A few well placed words and a couple of cobbled together sentences will have to do. Check out these photos of my surf session today (all photos courtesy of Jeff Wallis):
Jammed down to the pier and peeked through to the south side. Way out the back... going off; knew I was at the wrong spot so I whipped a U-turn and headed to "the spot".
It was going off...
So I suited up as fast as I could and paddled out through the super hairy, ultra-gnarly beachbreak, heart pounding, hoping I wouldn't get caught by one of the death-sets that were rolling through. Had good karma- squeeked out.
Paddled way out until I was right on the thick section of a big, lined up left-hander that was coming through every now and again.
Snagged one! Fade to the right...
...swing to the left!
And then start pumping for all that you've got. The waves looked pretty manageable but once you got out there you realized that there was a lot of wall to deal with. In addition the wave was fairly full down at the base- if you dropped too low at the wrong time you'd slow way down and get left behind. The key was to keep a high line, right in the hook and haul ASS.
Of course, once you start getting comfortable, you start taking chances... like dropping way low and trying to pull up into the hook of the wave. Most of the waves I surfed today ran fifty to eighty or so yards up the beach. All lefts.
I was getting tired and my free time was running out, so I rode this one all the way to the beach and called it a day. We've got rain coming now and I'm sure I won't be able to surf for the next four or five days so I'd call this session a huge score. Stoked- hope you got some too!