Broken record: another super fun day in the water.
6:00 am: Roll up to the beach, actually, put the truck into 4 Hi and roll onto the beach. Sip my coffee and check it out.
6:30 am: Wiggle into wet trunks, throw on the rashy, time the sets (it's a foot or two overhead today... building) and make my move through the shorebreak.
6:45 am: Bypass the, in your face, right in front of the truck, firing, cobalt blue wall that's winding down the beach. A big fast righthander, if you're a regular footed surfer, this might be too much for you to pass up.
7:15 am: Complete the quarter mile paddle up the beach to the hidden from view, firing, left hander up the beach.
7:20 am: Snag this wave, come up off the bottom...
... tap the breaks, drag the paddle, release the sea anchor... whatever it takes to slow this rocket down.
and tuck up as tight as possible. Got a legit little tube today, watched the lip pour in front of me and popped right out of it... stoked!
Repeat 'til 10:00am.
Wonder what's on the agenda for tomorrow?