6:00 am: Roll up to the beach, actually, put the truck into 4 Hi and roll onto the beach. Sip my coffee and check it out.
6:30 am: Wiggle into wet trunks, throw on the rashy, time the sets (it's a foot or two overhead today... building) and make my move through the shorebreak.
6:45 am: Bypass the, in your face, right in front of the truck, firing, cobalt blue wall that's winding down the beach. A big fast righthander, if you're a regular footed surfer, this might be too much for you to pass up.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibuN2rM5O-QzScdhP7R9IIAG7xfIJrMDokiRk-WLIBNYEjBoklEHzeMPHfxnN4Fm6JcIKbCJD_BZvB2bBAU5pkUCK1aKeMLWjxSVDJK5ZUrdn9qKOTXczBo-afB1iaxzGm99sIhrUS11Pj/s400/todos3+035.jpg)
7:15 am: Complete the quarter mile paddle up the beach to the hidden from view, firing, left hander up the beach.
7:20 am: Snag this wave, come up off the bottom...
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLnp-3baaGkm-GnBDI6OOiL8FThGmIu-O3feRJmBdR6VPXhQOX91jHqlCLesq8787fBCwCHRm48ym5zKV2t27edUznwr5XasJAUfUpl1Qb6d5UC2wDt30Vx6m09snHRrzOxojeXo5bctvX/s400/todos3+074.jpg)
... tap the breaks, drag the paddle, release the sea anchor... whatever it takes to slow this rocket down.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdpH7K12uWrr0LodmaXMud-P6N07XGJomMwlFdiySokCkVBCZ-kWhPmYiWVyHSjaoKlra8MQhQDyGcJgumrvPFfR2n2QbUPlxaZ2hWPw1gCLgS8ehrtm2AYmPS-3B56cp17F1bEzHspFO7/s400/todos3+057.jpg)
and tuck up as tight as possible. Got a legit little tube today, watched the lip pour in front of me and popped right out of it... stoked!
Repeat 'til 10:00am.
Wonder what's on the agenda for tomorrow?
2 comments:
Sounds fun! Pretty sure Chad is going to head down...
Come on down!
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