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Thursday, December 23, 2010

Surfed the beach break this morning...

I had to alter my surf plans- the point just wasn't working; too high tide and bump, disjointed peaks. I decided to run up to the beach break and check it since high tide usually opens up the break a little bit. I was right- the place wasn't going off but there were definitely more surfing opportunities up there.

The place is usually pretty closed out during the winter. In the summer south swells bounce of the rock point to the north and create wedges up and down the beach. It can get really good  here.
I ended up paddlesurfing for about two hours. I was stoked to run into my friend Mario. Mario is the king of the beach down there.  He runs a surf school that's the best on the sand. I've known Mario for four years, he was there when I brought my first stando to the beach.  He's a hard worker who switches hats at night and becomes the bartender at a cool boutique hotel in Todos Santos call El Hotelito. Mario has got big plans for developing a piece of land behind the beach break- a real cool vision of a pool, a bar and a surf shop. I'm stoked for him- he's a hard working local making his dream happen.

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